Zion is the second busiest national park in America now, ahead of Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon. It is also the only one whose original name was thrown out because a federal official could not spell it.
Zion is one of 63 national parks in ParkStamp, and like every park it has original stamp designs drawn in the WPA poster tradition. Each one is an illustration of a specific place you can go stand.
Recording the visit is free. Check in at the park, add a trip from years ago, or let the app read the dates off photos already on your phone.
It was Mukuntuweap National Monument first. Taft protected it under that name in 1909, from a Southern Paiute word that the Park Service translates as "straight canyon." In 1917 Horace Albright, then acting director of the brand-new Park Service, visited and pushed to change it. His stated reason, quoted years later: he felt the name was "too difficult to pronounce and really tough to spell." The historian Hal Rothman put the institutional thinking more plainly, that Spanish and Indian names were believed to deter visitors who might not bother going somewhere they could not say out loud. The rename went through in 1918 and Zion became a national park on November 19, 1919.
1919 was a three-park year, the biggest of any single year. Grand Canyon and Acadia both arrived on February 26. Zion came nine months later, last of the three.
You start at the bottom here. That is the real difference from the Grand Canyon, and it is not just a matter of where they put the road. The rock stacks: the oldest layer exposed at Zion is the youngest layer at the Grand Canyon, and the bottom layer at Bryce is the top layer at Zion. Three parks, one continuous sequence of about two billion years. At the Grand Canyon you stand on the rim and look down. At Zion the road, the lodge and nearly every trailhead sit on the canyon floor, and you look up at 2,000-foot walls.
Those walls are Navajo Sandstone, which is lithified sand dunes from a Sahara-scale desert that covered 150,000 square miles of North America. The Park Service handout calls them possibly the tallest sandstone cliffs in the world. The Virgin River cut through them at one of the steepest stream gradients in North America, removing 1,300 feet of rock in about a million years.
The Zion snail. Somewhere between a sixteenth and an eighth of an inch long, and it lives on roughly three miles of the Virgin River in this canyon and one side canyon, and nowhere else on the planet. It grips wet vertical rock in the hanging gardens using what is proportionally the largest foot of any snail in the world. It was long described as the world's smallest snail; the Park Service has since walked that back to "very small." You can see them in the seeps along the Riverside Walk. Do not touch them.
California condors, breeding here again. In September 2019, the park's centennial year, a chick that had hatched in Zion fledged successfully. The Park Service called it the first in the park in probably a hundred years. A second followed in 2021, from the same parents. Roughly 82 condors now fly free over northern Arizona and southern Utah, from a world population of 22 birds in 1982. Lead fragments in carcasses remain the biggest obstacle to recovery.
Desert bighorn sheep, from zero to a problem worth having. Wiped out of the Zion area by the mid-20th century and reintroduced in 1973. There are now more than 500. The herd worked so well that Zion functions as a source, with sheep trapped and moved out to seed herds elsewhere, partly to keep density down: at close quarters a single contact with domestic sheep can start a respiratory die-off.
Peregrine falcons, which close the walls every spring. Angels Landing, the Great White Throne, the Streaked Wall and a dozen other faces shut to climbers from around March 1 until the chicks fledge, usually late July. Disturb a pair and they may not try again for a full year. Hiking trails stay open.
A freestanding sandstone fin standing 1,488 feet above the canyon floor. The route was cut into solid rock in 1926 by the park's first superintendent, whose 21 switchbacks are still called Walter's Wiggles. The final half-mile is a chained knife-edge less than three feet wide in places, with drops of up to a thousand feet on both sides. Access to the final stretch is now metered; nps.gov has the current rules.
The place the canyon closes down to nothing. Walls a thousand feet tall with the river running twenty to thirty feet wide between them, and no trail, because at least 60% of the hike is spent walking in the water. Flash floods are the real danger and there is no high ground to climb to.
The peak standing over the south entrance, 2,600 feet above Springdale, red Kayenta shale below and pale Navajo Sandstone above. Everyone sees it first and last. The classic photograph is from the bridge over the Virgin River at sunset, and it takes almost no effort to reach, which is why it may be the most reproduced view in the park.
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