Parts of the Black Canyon receive about half an hour of direct sunlight a day, which is how it got its name. The Gunnison River that cut it drops an average of 96 feet per mile through the park; the Colorado, through the Grand Canyon, manages about seven and a half.
Black Canyon is one of 63 national parks in ParkStamp. Every park in the app carries original stamp art in the WPA poster tradition, and every design shows a specific real place, not a generic vista.
The visit record is free. Check in at the rim, add a trip from years ago, or let the app read dates and locations out of the photos already on your phone.
The surveys kept going around it. Captain John Gunnison's 1853 railroad survey skirted the gorge (he was killed in Utah later that year, and the river took his name anyway), and the Hayden survey of the 1870s pronounced the canyon inaccessible. Of the 48 miles the river spends in the Black Canyon, the park protects the deepest and sheerest 14. The name is literal: the walls are dark rock, and the gorge is so narrow that parts of it get about half an hour of direct sun a day.
In 1901 two men went through on rubber mattresses. Farmers in the neighboring Uncompahgre Valley needed water, and the only supply worth having was locked in the canyon. Government engineer Abraham Lincoln Fellows and Montrose local William Torrence floated and swam the gorge on rubber air mattresses, crossing the river dozens of times, and came out declaring a diversion tunnel feasible. The Gunnison Tunnel opened in 1909: nearly six miles bored through the canyon wall, at the time the longest irrigation tunnel in the world. It still waters the valley.
A Montrose minister got it protected. Reverend Mark Warner spent years in the 1920s and 30s organizing locals, walking visitors to the rim and lobbying for the canyon; Herbert Hoover proclaimed the national monument in 1933, and Civilian Conservation Corps crews built the North Rim road soon after. National park status came on October 21, 1999. The point above the canyon's deepest reach, 2,722 feet, is named for Warner.
The geometry is the exhibit. The walls are gneiss and schist about 1.7 billion years old, some of the oldest rock exposed in any national park, and nearly erosion-proof. The river was set in its course by soft volcanic deposits that once buried this block; when it cut down into the hard basement it was trapped, and all it could do was keep sawing. Hence the proportions: 40 feet wide at river level in the Narrows, 1,100 feet rim to rim at Chasm View, and walls that drop rather than slope.
Peregrine falcons nest on the Painted Wall. The biggest cliff in Colorado comes with the fastest animal on Earth, hitting well over 200 miles an hour in a dive. They share the airspace with white-throated swifts, which feed, drink and even mate on the wing along the rims, and with canyon wrens, whose falling-scale song is the sound of the inner gorge.
The inner canyon grows its forest upside down. Shaded, north-facing walls hold Douglas-fir far below the elevation where you would expect it, while the sunny rims above carry pinyon, juniper and Gambel oak. Down along the river, poison ivy grows chest-high and higher in solid thickets; every account of the inner-canyon routes mentions it, because there is no avoiding it.
The rim country carries the big animals. Mule deer and black bear work the oak brush, bighorn sheep pick their way along ledges that look like typos, and below them the Gunnison runs cold and clear and holds large trout, which is why herons and eagles patrol the river.
Colorado's tallest cliff, 2,250 feet from river to rim; the Empire State Building would not reach two-thirds of the way up. The face is dark gneiss shot through with pink pegmatite veins, molten rock that squeezed into cracks more than a billion years ago. Peregrine falcons nest on it. It is the image most people mean when they say Black Canyon.
The canyon at its tightest, where the rims pinch toward each other and the river below runs through a gap only about forty feet wide, a stone hallway holding an entire river. It is best seen from the North Rim, where the road runs close to the edge and the drop reads almost as an optical error.
The view from the end of a mile-and-a-half nature trail at the top of the South Rim road, named for Mark Warner, the Montrose minister who spent years campaigning to protect the canyon. Below the point the gorge reaches its greatest depth, 2,722 feet, and the long view runs from the San Juan Mountains to the Uncompahgre Valley.
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