A teenage cowboy saw what he took for smoke rising out of the desert and rode toward it. It was bats, hundreds of thousands of them, spiraling out of a hole in the ground. The hole turned out to be one of the great cave systems on Earth, and the first tourists went down it in a guano bucket.
Carlsbad Caverns is one of 63 national parks in ParkStamp. Every park in the app has original stamp designs drawn in the WPA poster tradition, and each design is an illustration of a real place, which in this case means places several hundred feet underground.
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Jim White spent years being disbelieved. Around 1898, a cowhand of about sixteen followed the bat flight to the cave mouth and started exploring it with a kerosene lantern and a wire ladder he built himself. He talked about limestone chambers of impossible size to anyone who would listen, which was nearly no one, until a photographer's flash-powder pictures of the interior finally made the case in the early 1920s. White ended his career as a park ranger in the cave he had mapped by lantern light.
The first industry here was droppings. Decades of bat colonies had left guano deposits tens of feet deep, and around the turn of the century companies mined it as fertilizer for California citrus groves, hauling it up a shaft in an iron bucket. When curious visitors started showing up, the bucket doubled as the elevator. A federal inspector sent to assess the claims went down it in 1923 and reported back, in effect, that the place beggared description; Coolidge proclaimed the national monument that October, and Congress made it a national park on May 14, 1930.
The cave was made by acid rising, not water sinking. Most limestone caves are dissolved slowly by mildly acidic rainwater percolating down. Here, hydrogen sulfide migrating up from the oil-and-gas basin below mixed with groundwater to form sulfuric acid, which ate out chambers of enormous volume. The limestone itself is the Capitan Reef, a fossil reef laid down at the edge of an inland sea in the Permian, roughly 265 million years ago, so the rooms are dissolved out of an ancient seabed standing in a desert.
The park's greatest cave has almost no visitors at all. In 1986 cavers dug through a rubble plug at the bottom of a pit called Lechuguilla and broke into a system that has since been mapped past 150 miles, among the deepest in the country, lined with gypsum chandeliers and crystal pools. Entry is restricted to research and survey teams, and its isolated microbes have drawn serious attention from scientists hunting new antibiotics. It is one of more than a hundred known caves inside the park boundary.
The bats are Brazilian free-tailed, and they commute. The summer colony of hundreds of thousands roosts in a section of the cave and pours out of the Natural Entrance at dusk in a counterclockwise spiral, off to hunt moths over the Pecos and Black river valleys. They winter in Mexico. Guano mining and DDT-era pesticides knocked the colony far below its historic size, but the evening flight remains one of the reliable wildlife spectacles in the park system.
The entrance has a day shift too. Cave swallows nest on the twilight ledges just inside the Natural Entrance, for decades one of the northernmost colonies of the species anywhere. So the same hole in the ground runs swallows by day and bats by night, trading places at dusk like a shift change.
Above ground is a national park in its own right. Most of the surface is Chihuahuan Desert wilderness: lechuguilla agave, sotol, mule deer, ringtails and javelinas on ridges of the same fossil reef that holds the caves. And a detached spring-fed oasis at Rattlesnake Springs, shaded by cottonwoods, is one of the best birding spots in New Mexico, with a species list out of all proportion to its size.
The largest single cave chamber in North America: about eight acres of floor, with the ceiling arching 255 feet overhead at its highest. A paved trail of about a mile and a quarter loops past the Bottomless Pit, the Giant Dome and the Hall of Giants. This is the image most people carry out of Carlsbad, and the obvious first stamp.
The spectacle that revealed the cave: on summer evenings, hundreds of thousands of Brazilian free-tailed bats spiral out of the Natural Entrance at dusk, watched from a stone amphitheater built at the rim. It reads as smoke from a distance, which is exactly what a teenage cowboy thought it was in 1898. Pick it if the animals were the point.
The deepest developed chamber open to visitors, 830 feet below the desert surface and seen with a ranger, part of a run of four rooms hung with draperies, columns, soda straws and helictites that grow in defiance of gravity. Rangers traditionally kill the lights partway through to demonstrate absolute darkness. Choose it if that blackout stayed with you.
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