Roughly three-fifths of the island of St. John is national park, and the park exists because Laurance Rockefeller quietly bought about five thousand acres of it and gave them to the country. The country itself had bought the islands from Denmark in 1917, for $25 million in gold, mostly out of wartime nerves about German submarines.
Virgin Islands is one of the 63 national parks in ParkStamp, and every one of them has original stamp designs in the WPA poster tradition. Each is an illustration of a specific real place, in this case places you may need a boat, a trail, or a snorkel to reach.
Recording the visit costs nothing. Check in on the island, log the trip you took years ago, or let the app lift the dates and places from the photos already on your phone.
Denmark ran St. John as a sugar island, colonizing it in 1718 and covering its steep slopes with plantations worked by enslaved Africans. In November 1733, enslaved people, many of them Akwamu from the Gold Coast, seized the Danish fort at Coral Bay and held much of the island for about six months, one of the earliest and longest slave rebellions in the Americas, until troops brought from French Martinique ended it. Denmark abolished slavery in its West Indies in 1848, after an uprising on St. Croix forced the governor's hand.
Sugar collapsed and the island went back to bush. By the twentieth century the estates were ruins in dry forest, and in 1917 Denmark sold the islands to the United States for $25 million in gold; Washington's concern was German U-boat bases in the Caribbean, not beaches. For decades afterward St. John stayed poor, quiet and hard to reach, which is precisely what preserved it.
Laurance Rockefeller sailed through in the early 1950s and did what his family had already done at Acadia and Grand Teton: bought land at scale, about 5,000 acres through the family's Jackson Hole Preserve, and offered it to the federal government on condition it become a national park. Eisenhower signed the act on August 2, 1956. Congress later pushed the park offshore, adding thousands of acres of submerged reef and seagrass in 1962, and Hassel Island in St. Thomas harbor in 1978, so the park now runs well past the waterline in every direction.
The reef is the other half of the park. Elkhorn and staghorn corals, both federally listed as threatened since 2006, build the shallow structure, with seagrass meadows behind the reefs where green sea turtles graze; hawksbills work the coral itself. The mangrove-lined pockets of Hurricane Hole, where boats have always sheltered from storms, turn out to shelter corals too, growing in the shade of the mangrove roots.
The only native land mammals are bats. Everything else walking the island was brought: donkeys from the plantation era now wander at will, and the mongoose, imported to kill rats in the cane fields, mostly failed at the job (rats work nights and the mongoose works days) while making life miserable for ground-nesting birds and turtle nests ever since.
The forest is a comeback, not a relic. Nearly the whole island was cleared for cane and pasture, so today's green slopes are second growth threaded with ruins. In September 2017 hurricanes Irma and Maria, both Category 5, crossed the islands two weeks apart and stripped the canopy bare; the speed of the regreening since has been its own lesson in what this vegetation is built for.
The postcard of the Caribbean: white sand, a green islet just offshore, and water in bands of blue, with a marked underwater trail along the reef for snorkelers. The name likely honors the leatherback, the "trunk turtle" of island usage. It appears on lists of the world's best beaches often enough that arguing feels pointless.
The stone and coral-rubble remains of a plantation built and worked by enslaved laborers: a windmill tower among the largest in the Virgin Islands, boiling rooms, and village foundations, looking across the water to Tortola. It is the park's most direct monument to the people whose forced labor made the island's first economy.
The park extends far past the beach: thousands of submerged acres of reef and seagrass were added in 1962, decades before marine protection was fashionable. Elkhorn coral, parrotfish, rays and turtles live on the park map as surely as any overlook. A stamp for the visitor whose best memories of St. John happened underwater.
Open ParkStamp inside the park boundary and check in. The app confirms you are actually there and logs the date.
Already been? Pick the date yourself. Trips from decades ago count the same as last weekend.
Let ParkStamp read the dates and locations off photos already on your phone. Most people find parks they had forgotten.