In 1881 two brothers followed a whistling sound to a hole in the prairie about ten by fourteen inches across, and the wind coming out of it knocked a hat off. That hole is still the only natural opening ever found into a cave that now measures 168 surveyed miles, one of the longest on Earth. In 1903 it became the first cave anywhere to be made a national park.
Wind Cave is one of the 63 national parks in ParkStamp, and each park carries original stamp designs in the WPA poster tradition: every one an illustration of an actual place in the park you can go see for yourself.
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The cave breathes, and that is how it was found. Jesse and Tom Bingham traced a whistling noise to the small natural opening in 1881; the story goes that the outrushing air blew Tom's hat off, and when he came back to show friends, the cave inhaled it instead. The wind is barometric. When outside air pressure falls the cave exhales, when it rises the cave inhales, and because the volume underground is enormous, the breath at the little entrance can blow steadily for hours. The strength of that airflow suggests most of the cave has still never been entered by anyone.
Its first real explorer was a teenager. Alvin McDonald's family ran the cave as a tour attraction from 1890, and Alvin went in day after day with a candle and a ball of string, naming rooms and keeping a diary. One entry admits he had "given up the idea of finding the end of Wind Cave." He died in 1893 at age twenty, of typhoid contracted on a trip to the World's Fair in Chicago, and is buried on the hill by the entrance he knew better than anyone.
The Lakota knew the opening long before 1881. Wind Cave figures in the Lakota emergence story as the breathing hole in the earth through which the first people came up into the surface world, and through which the buffalo were given to them. The park sits inside a landscape, the Black Hills, that remains sacred and contested ground, and the small hole in the hillside is the reason any of the rest of this exists.
In 1903 it became a national park, which was a strange thing to do. Disputed private claims over the cave collapsed after a federal investigation found no one had a valid title, and Theodore Roosevelt signed the park into law on January 9, 1903, making it the first national park in the world created to protect a cave. What makes it stranger is the geometry: those 168 mapped miles of passage all stack beneath roughly a single square mile of prairie, level over level, the densest cave maze known anywhere.
The bison herd started with fourteen animals in 1913. Bison were functionally gone from the wild when the New York Zoological Society shipped fourteen of them to the newly fenced range here. From that seed the park built one of the oldest and most genetically valuable conservation herds in the country, drawn on for decades to establish and refresh herds elsewhere. The animals grazing over the cave today are the direct descendants of the species' closest call.
Black-footed ferrets are back underground too. North America's rarest mammal, twice thought extinct, was reintroduced to the park's prairie dog towns in 2007. Ferrets live in the burrows and hunt the prairie dogs that dig them, so the whole enterprise rides on keeping the dog towns large and healthy, which the park does, because prairie dogs are the keystone the rest of the grassland leans on.
The prairie is the other half of the park. Wind Cave protects some of the most intact mixed-grass prairie left anywhere, the middle ground where eastern tallgrass and western shortgrass species overlap and diversity spikes. Elk bugle here in fall, and pronghorn (the fastest land animal in the hemisphere) run the ridgelines at speeds nothing on this continent has been able to catch for about ten thousand years.
Below ground, almost nothing lives, and that is normal. The cave is dry and nutrient-poor, holding a steady temperature in the low fifties year-round. The small natural entrance admits few bats and little organic matter, so the darkness stays close to sterile: mile after mile of still air, bare rock and boxwork.
Thin blades of calcite projecting from cave ceilings in a honeycomb pattern, formed when vein fillings resisted the slow dissolving of the rock around them. Roughly 95 percent of all the boxwork known on Earth is in this one cave, which makes it the single most Wind Cave thing there is. The obvious pick for anyone who came for the underground.
The roof of the cave: rolling grassland where eastern tallgrass and western shortgrass meet, grazed by bison descended from fourteen animals shipped in by rail in 1913, with pronghorn on the ridges and prairie dog towns spread across the flats. Most visitors come for the cave; this design argues the surface is the equal of it.
A hole in a hillside about ten by fourteen inches, the only natural opening ever found into 168 miles of cave, and the place where the Binghams lost a hat to the wind in 1881. The cave still audibly breathes through it with every swing of the barometer. In the Lakota emergence story, this is where the people came into the world.
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